The back story

Hawaiʻi at the table: from the poi bowl to the tasting menu

In depth·Oʻahu

Helena’s Hawaiian food since 1946, La Mer and Michel’s on the sand, the kitchens of Kaimukī, Roy Yamaguchi’s cooking since 1988 and Mama’s Fish House on Maui: how Hawaiʻi eats.

Hawaiʻi cooks with the Pacific in the pot. Its table brings together the Native Hawaiian dishes of kalo (taro), fish and the imu, the plantation kitchens of Japan, China, Portugal, Korea and the Philippines, and, since the 1980s and 1990s, chefs who wrote all of it into one cuisine. You can eat it at a counter in Kalihi, in Waikīkī’s great dining rooms, or on Maui’s shore.

Hawaiian food

Helena’s Hawaiian Food has served traditional local Hawaiian food since 1946, a family business in its own words: this is where to try pipikaula, kalua pig, lau lau and poi.

The grand rooms

Halekulani’s La Mer and Orchids, and Michel’s at the Colony Surf, the definition of fine dining in Honolulu since 1962 in its own words, set dinner beside the sea.

The new cooking

Roy Yamaguchi founded Roy’s in 1988, combining Asian flavours with French technique; Peter Merriman, in his restaurant’s words, has been a culinary pioneer in Hawaiʻi for more than 35 years. In Kaimukī, Mud Hen Water, the Pig & the Lady and Senia carry it on.

Eat one Hawaiian plate, one tasting menu and one shave ice; then you have tasted the islands.

Maui

At Mama’s Fish House on Maui’s north shore, executive chef Perry Bateman, a fifth-generation chef born and raised on Maui, cooks the fish of the families who supply it.

Our advice: book the dining rooms weeks ahead, and go to the counters early; the best of them sell out.

Why it's on our list

  • Hawaiian food
  • The grand rooms
  • The new cooking
  • Maui

Location

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